Laser hair removal for dark skin came much later than its use on lighter tones, yet recent innovations have rendered it safe and effective. Finding an experienced provider who understands your individual skin tone is key.
At-home devices tend to use IPL technology rather than true lasers, making them less effective against darker skin tones than true laser treatments would. But if your skin tone falls between six and nine, these treatments could still prove worthwhile.
How does it work?
Laser treatments offer a long-term solution to unwanted hair growth that surpasses shaving, waxing, plucking and creams alone. Before scheduling an appointment at your local salon, make sure that they use an appropriate laser type for your skin tone – as not all lasers work effectively on darker skin, according to dermatologist and Mohs surgeon Michelle Henry MD. Older lasers that utilize Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) technology tend to transfer too much heat onto melanin deposits in the skin, leading to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Dr. Charles notes that newer devices using longer wavelengths bypass melanin production in the skin and specifically target pigmentation in hair follicles. For this reason, she emphasizes the need to visit providers equipped with appropriate equipment – in this instance an Nd:YAG laser for darker complexions.
Laser hair removal has been proven safe for all skin types when performed by licensed medical professionals such as dermatologists or Mohs surgeons who specialize in skin of color. Furthermore, results may be more impressive when done at a doctor’s office where there are less opportunities for errors to happen.
Be wary if considering using an at-home laser device for hair removal. Most home machines use IPL lasers which may damage skin by sending too much heat into melanin in hair and nearby tissue, according to Dr. Charles’ warnings.
Laser hair removal should also be avoided during pregnancy or following chemical peel surgery, according to Dr. Charles. Doing so could affect both your complexion and treatment results negatively, according to Charles.
As with laser hair removal, if you have active infections or lesions it’s wise to wait until these have resolved before initiating laser treatment as it may cause increased discomfort for sensitive skin types. Furthermore, those taking Accutane should wait at least until their acne has cleared before seeking laser therapy treatments.
What are my options?
Laser hair removal has long been used by those of all skin tones to get rid of unwanted hair, yet many early models weren’t designed with dark complexions in mind, leaving those with darker complexions more at risk for blistering, scarring and hyperpigmentation after treatment. Thanks to technological advancements in laser technology however, treatments now work safely on those with darker complexions–targeting only your melanin instead of leaving other parts unaffected.
To achieve this goal, lasers emit monochromatic light which gets absorbed by melanin found in your hair follicles, turning into heat that damages them and inhibits future growth. To avoid overexposure to light it’s essential that any device comes equipped with a built-in skin tone sensor to control intensity of light sent your way; such devices include BoSidin At Home Hair Removal Device, KetchBeauty V4.1 IPL Handset and Philips Lumea Comfort are among the top solutions for dark skin users.
When selecting a laser hair removal clinic or at-home machine for laser hair removal, always choose an Nd:YAG or diode laser as these provide safest options to treat all shades of skin.
Waxing, plucking, and electrolysis should also be avoided in the area to be lasered. Most providers recommend shaving prior to your session as laser therapy works best when there’s some hair present in the treated area.
Before your laser hair removal sessions, it’s advisable not to overexfoliate, as overdoing it could impede its effectiveness on hair follicles. Consult with a dermatologist beforehand in order to make sure your skin is prepared; depending on its individual needs they may suggest more or fewer frequent laser sessions or alternative settings for laser removal treatments.
Do I need to shave before my session?
Lisa Pegram was curious to test out a device at Sephora that claimed it could help remove unwanted hair within minutes with just one treatment, but is it effective? So we enlisted two dermatologists – Shereene Idriss MD and Michelle Henry MD- for answers.
First and foremost, at-home laser hair removal for dark skin should not be seen as a permanent solution. You’ll still require regular maintenance sessions (typically once every month depending on your hair growth cycle) in order to keep follicles from growing back again; but this small price to pay can save thousands over time by forgoing razors, shaving cream and waxing products altogether.
Be mindful that laser devices may cause side effects, including redness and bumps. This is due to lasers heating up melanin pigment in your skin and leading to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation; hence it’s crucial that you choose an appropriate device and work with an experienced provider when treating people of color.
Preparing for at-home laser hair removal involves several key steps. First, avoid products that darken your skin tone such as sunless skin creams and bleaching agents. Second, shave all areas you are planning on lasering prior to scheduling an appointment so as to eliminate any hairy bumps which might interfere with the process. Also important: stop plunging or waxing in advance since these methods of hair removal disturb hair follicles and slow the results of laser treatments.
Drs. Idriss and Henry suggest diode or Nd:YAG lasers as being optimal treatments for darker skin tones, as these lasers tend to be safer and more effective than pulsed light lasers commonly found in beauty salons that may lead to pigment changes such as melasma. Furthermore, these modern versions may be safer than older, longer wavelength lasers which were often only suitable for lighter complexions; potentially leaving darker tones vulnerable.
Are there any side effects?
Laser treatments may cause temporary redness and swelling at the treated site, though this usually subsides after a few hours. After several sessions of laser hair removal treatments, your results should gradually show; though significant results may take several months due to hair’s changing growth cycles.
Pre- and post-treatment instructions must be strictly observed in order to reduce side effects. This means avoiding skin-care products that increase photosensitivity such as glycolic and salicylic acids or benzoyl peroxide in the weeks leading up to your session, according to Dr. Charles’ advice. “Using these in conjunction with laser treatment could increase sensitivity leading to burning or scarring,” according to him. Additionally, Dr. Charles suggests limiting direct sun exposure on areas being lasered for at least a month post treatment while employing proper sunscreen application during treatment series of sessions.
An ice pack may be necessary to reduce any discomfort, and you should plan your session in such a way as not to interfere with work or other activities. Your frequency of sessions varies based on individual circumstances; typically results can be seen within five sessions.
Historically, laser hair removal wasn’t considered safe for those with darker complexions due to early models of devices failing to differentiate between melanin in the skin and pigment found in hair follicles – leading to dark or light spots on skin as well as burning, scarring and hypopigmentation in hair follicles – and melanin-rich skin; but thanks to smarter lasers designed specifically for melanin-rich skin types it’s now possible to remove unwanted fuzz safely.
When booking your initial laser session, look for a clinic or technician that specializes in lasers and has experience treating patients with skin tones similar to your own. Make sure your dermatologist or nurse carries the appropriate device – Gmyrek suggests finding someone who uses the 1064nm Nd:YAG laser, which targets only pigment in hair follicles without targeting melanin within your own body.
Downie and Gmyrek both emphasize the importance of finding an experienced practitioner who specializes in laser treatments for dark skin, since identifying any issues without expertise may be challenging. Make sure your specialist is certified by an appropriate board, has extensive training, and experience working with melanin-rich skin.
